Highlights at Sundown

Explore the Palm Springs Districts

By Terri Hardin

Upto w n D o w n t o w n S o u t h Nort h

Palm Springs was built for fun. At the dawn of Hollywood, the Village of Palm Springs was the farthest distance a movie star could go and still be available for reshoots. “Get it while you can” must have been the mantra, since a host of legendary nightclubs, speakeasies, and gambling joints rose up almost overnight, catering to hijinks.

Today, people come to experience that legendary Palm Springs lifestyle that surrounds you in relaxation and melts the stress away. With a modern retro vibe and the uniqueness of midcentury modern architecture in every neighborhood, it truly is like no place else. Here’s what to look for in each unique area when you’re seeking entertainment in the cooler hours:

Downtown:
Where the legend began

Map highlighting downtown Palm Springs

The backbone of Downtown is South Palm Canyon Drive, the oldest commercial area in the city and still going strong. From Alejo to Ramon, it’s a surprising collection of new buildings combined with historic Spanish Colonial and mid-century modern architecture, all of which offer a wide range of restaurants, boutiques, and plenty of outdoor patio space. There’s a tremendous selection, but here are some recommendations to start with:

Grand Central Palm Springs, which anchors La Plaza on South Palm Canyon, welcomes guests in one of Palm Springs historic buildings. Built in 1936, La Plaza was the first outdoor mall in the U.S. It’s just as vibrant today with its eclectic array of specialty stores and services (you can get a haircut, a shoe polish, and a musical wall clock). An equally distinct restaurant is FARM, an intimate Provencal-style eatery, tucked away in a cul-de-sac. Tyler’s, a local favorite for burgers, is a converted gas station.

A couple dines at Grand Central Palm Springs restaurant with the bar in the background.

Also on Palm Canyon is the popular Lulu California Bistro, a day-or-night restaurant that delights with its three-course “feasts.” Celebrate anything in this spacious, multi-tiered former discotheque. There’s Woody’s Palm House near Ramon on South Palm Canyon that features BBQ from their smoker, while Shanghai Reds Bar & Grill offers fresh seafood.

Uptown is the face that Palm Springs shows to the world: an incubator for period stores, Instagrammable cuisine, and good times. North of Alejo, the Downtown and Uptown transition seamlessly. By day, you can shield yourself from the sun while shopping in the Design District, where everyone comes for mid-century modern décor and fashion. Trina Turk/Mr. Turk has an outpost in Uptown, as does SHAG the Store for tiki-inspired original art. Particularly charming are Dazzles and The Frippery, which expertly curate “pre-loved” items, and The Corridor, a grassy parklet framed by shops. 

By night, some of the best places to be in Uptown include Copley’s on Palm Canyon, a restaurant, bar and patio in Cary Grant’s former guest house, and the popular Eight4Nine Restaurant & Lounge and Trio Restaurant Palm Springs. Chef-driven Jake’s and Workshop Kitchen+Bar have thrived here, and the newly relocated Bongo Johnny’s Patio Bar and Grill is putting down roots.

Uptown:
Design District

Map highlighting uptown Palm Springs

South:
at The Curve

Map highlighting South Palm Springs

South Palm Springs is where you’ll find the eyrie homes of Bob Hope, Steve McQueen, and that famous James Bond location, the Elrod House. Those celebrities knew how to stay cool in both senses of the word. Vicariously experience a Palm Springs speakeasy at Seymour’s, a retro lounge where you can re-tell stories of its namesake Seymour “Swifty” Lazar. (This recent entry evokes Hollywood Regency at its clubbiest.) Elsewhere, El Mirasol Cocina Mexicana still slings margaritas at its original south location, a favorite of local resident Barry Manilow. The Ace Hotel & Swim Club entertains both poolside and tableside with classic diner fare at King’s Highway desert diner and the large craft beer selection at the Amigo Room. Visitors who seek that “lived-in” bar look will find it at The Reef at the Caliente Tropic, an unapologetic tiki bar. 

Find more tributes to 1960s style at two boutique hotels adding a French twist to the charms of South Palm Springs. Dive brings the St. Tropez beach culture of the 1960s to life, while Sparrows Lodge gets its vibe from a more hip country theme. A short distance down the road, hiding behind the large ficus hedges, is a leading hotel of the world, L’Horizon, where you will find one of Palm Springs’ hidden luxury resorts.

Inside the lobby of the Ace Hotel in Palm Springs is a curved wooden chair sitting on a colorful rug in front of a stone wall with a metal and wooden shelf filled with books, vases and plants.
A cocktail stands on the tiled bar at Seymour’s speakeasy.

Even if you went no further than North Palm Springs (and it is just the gateway), you’d discover the iconic sign, the starchitect-designed visitors center, and, of course, the world-famous Palm Springs Aerial Tramway. It’s always an amazing 8,500-foot vertical journey — and one that becomes more appreciated as the season heats up. (Tip: Book the Tramway in advance of your Palm Springs trip to avoid the lines.) Other places to enjoy (and a family favorite) is the Escape Room Palm Springs, where you use your wits to break out of a locked room (this may take time!); and Haus of Re[x], a “cool” furniture and furnishings design store where browsers are welcome, and the only thing that might get hurt is your wallet. 

Cool boutique resorts have popped up in North Palm Springs like The Weekend Palm Springs, a restored mid-century modern hotel, and The Palm Springs Hotel offering more modern features.

North:
The Bucket List

Map highlighting North Palm Springs

More to Explore

What do the locals do? Pretty much what visitors do, but here are a few “local” suggestions:

  • See the largest collection of working WWII aircraft at the Palm Springs Air Museum, a hangar full of vintage planes that’s on the other side of the airport (on Gene Autry).
  • Enjoy the Backstreet Art District, where a community of working artists will be happy to show you their wares.
  • Explore the neighborhoods on a bike and discover the large collection of original midcentury modern architecture with the backdrop of the San Jacinto mountains.
  • Enjoy a hike on the many local hiking trails. For a view of the valley, head to the train behind the art museum. Hiking Guide.
A woman is standing on top of rocks on a hiking trail underneath a bright blue sky with mountains off in the distance. A row of bright yellow bikes stand in front of a bike rental store with a sign in the spokes that reads Palm Springs Historical Society Biking Tours, Bike Palm Springs rentals.

Discover the many sides of Palm Springs